Fashion has long been an avenue for self-expression, but the environmental impact of certain fabrics tells a different story—one of pollution, waste, and unsustainable practices. While the fashion industry is moving toward greener practices, many commonly used fabrics remain problematic. Let’s explore some of these unsustainable materials, their impact, and why rethinking our choices is crucial for a healthier planet.

1. Polyester: The Ubiquitous synthetic fiber

Polyester is a synthetic fabric made from petroleum, a non-renewable resource. It is widely used in everything from clothing to home furnishings due to its durability and affordability.

Why is it unsustainable?

• Energy-Intensive Production: Producing polyester requires significant amounts of energy and fossil fuels. According to the World Resources Institute (WRI), polyester production emits nearly 706 million tons of CO₂ annually, making it one of the largest contributors to greenhouse gas emissions in fashion. 
• Microplastic Pollution: Each time polyester garments are washed, they release microplastics into waterways, contributing to ocean pollution and threatening marine life.

Environmental Consequences:
The accumulation of microplastics in oceans is projected to double by 2040 if current trends continue, with synthetic fibers like polyester being a major culprit.  

2. Nylon: Tough but environmentally costly

Like polyester, Nylon is derived from petrochemicals. It was initially developed as a substitute for silk and is now commonly found in sportswear, hosiery, and swimwear.

Why is it unsustainable?

Environmental Impact:

• Greenhouse Gas Emissions: Nylon production emits nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas with a global warming potential 310 times that of carbon dioxide.
• Energy Consumption: Manufacturing nylon is energy-intensive, requiring approximately 250 megajoules per kilogram of textile produced. 

• Non-Biodegradability: Nylon is non-biodegradable, persisting in the environment for extended periods and contributing to landfill accumulation.

Additional Considerations:

• Resource Depletion: Derived from petrochemicals, nylon production relies on non-renewable fossil fuels, exacerbating resource depletion.
  
• Recycling Challenges: While technically recyclable, the process is complex and not widely implemented, limiting the reduction of its environmental footprint.

3. Conventional Cotton: The water guzzler

Conventional cotton is a natural fiber, often marketed as eco-friendly. However, conventional cotton farming tells a different story. Check this article for how conventional cotton is different from organic cotton.

Why is it Unsustainable?

• Water Use: Growing cotton is highly water-intensive. Producing one kilogram of cotton requires approximately 10,000 liters of water, according to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). This depletes freshwater resources, especially in regions already facing water scarcity. 
• Pesticide Usage: Conventional cotton accounts for 16% of global insecticide use and 6% of pesticide use, despite covering only 2.5% of agricultural land. These chemicals harm soil health, biodiversity, and human health.  

Impact Example: 
The Aral Sea, once the world's fourth-largest lake, has experienced a dramatic reduction in size due to extensive irrigation projects, particularly for cotton cultivation. According to UWF by 2007, it had diminished to approximately 10% of its original size, with salinity levels increasing from about 1% to 10%, rendering the water three times more saline than seawater.

4. Rayon and Viscose: Forests in fashion

These fabrics are semi-synthetic, derived from cellulose (wood pulp) and chemically processed to create soft, breathable textiles.

Why are they unsustainable?

Environmental Impact:

• Deforestation: According to CDFA, the production of rayon and viscose often involves harvesting wood from ancient or endangered forests, leading to habitat destruction and biodiversity loss. 

• Chemical Pollution: The manufacturing process uses harmful chemicals like carbon disulfide, which can harm workers and surrounding ecosystems. 
  • Gelbke HP, Göen T, Mäurer M, Sulsky SI. A review of health effects of carbon disulfide in viscose industry and a proposal for an occupational exposure limit.
• Water Pollution: Effluents from viscose production can contain nitrates, phosphates, and other pollutants, endangering aquatic life. 


Additional Considerations:

• High Water Usage: The production process requires substantial water, contributing to water scarcity in certain regions.
• Worker Health Risks: Exposure to chemicals used in viscose production poses significant health risks to factory workers.

5. Acrylic: Cheap but harmful

Acrylic is another synthetic fabric made from fossil fuels derived from certain petroleum or coal-based chemicals. It is commonly used in sweaters, socks, and home textiles due to its affordability.

Why is it unsustainable?

Environmental Impact:

• Non-Biodegradability: Acrylic fibers are non-biodegradable, leading to persistent environmental pollution. 

• Toxic Emissions: Manufacturing acrylic releases harmful chemicals, including acrylonitrile, a known carcinogen, into the environment.
• Energy Consumption: According to Science Direct, 1 kg of acrylic production requires 210 litres of water and emits approximately 5 kg of CO₂. 


  

Additional Considerations:

• Microplastic Pollution: Acrylic fabrics shed microplastics during washing, contributing to marine pollution and posing risks to aquatic life.
• Limited Recycling: Recycling acrylic fibers is challenging and not commonly practiced, leading to increased waste.

Closing thoughts: Rethinking fabric choices

While these fabrics have become staples in the fashion industry, their environmental toll is undeniable. Transitioning to sustainable alternatives, such as organic cotton, hemp, or recycled materials, can significantly reduce the fashion industry’s ecological footprint. As consumers, we have the power to drive change by making informed choices and supporting brands committed to sustainability.

Resources

1. Apparel industry’s environmental impact
2. Impact of fast fashion
3. Rayon (viscose)
4. The true costs of cotton
5. Dry tears of the Aral
6. Acrylic fabric has huge impact on the environment